Chamonix Chalet news

In the morning: are we really going up there? Normally, you go up via the rack railway, but since it is late season now, it’s closed, and we had to walk from the cable car, which adds about 2 hours. Here we all are, about to set off…Neil the guide, Nick and me. Fortunately, it’s a very beautiful walk The work train is being used for repairs part of the way up, but otherwise, it’s deserted at Nid d’Aigle. Two weeks ago, this place was full of tourists, but it’s all quiet nowApart from the ibex who are everywhere… Steadily climbing to the Tete Rousse hut have to do the last bit in crampons …as there’s a big snowfield and couloir to cross before the hut…but the view is amazingand the sunset is unlike anything I’ve ever seen. These aren’t retouched or anything… Setting off in the morning – relatively late at 5.30 am because it was so cold that a guide froze his face yesterday, making the normal 2am start too dangerous. We are lucky and it isn’t quite so cold today. There’s no new snow so the path is firm – perfect conditions.In half an hour, we’re at the Grand Couloir.Crossing this is about the most dangerous part of the whole trip, and the main reason we are setting off from the lower Tete Rousse hut is that, though it’s a longer day, you cross the couloir before dawn, when it’s quiet. As soon as the sun hits it, rocks varying from peas to pianos in size come ricocheting down. Plus, if you slip here, it’s all over. A Spanish climber died here last week, we think these flowers were for him.Safely past the couloir, and climbing up to the Gouter hut as dawn begins. Chamonix is visible far below.. At the Vallot hut (which is just a metal box lashed to the mountain at 4360m for emergencies). Apparently, this is often where people start flagging. I kept retching here and wasn’t sure I’d make it. But I thought – if I didn’t make it, I’d have to do it all again – and I really didn’t want to have to do it again. So I managed to keep some revolting power gel down and kept going. Being encouraged by Neil up the slope to the first Bosse. You can see these double humps in the top pic – they look tiny from the ground but they are massive!Feeling  better but that is a long way…and do we go up that ridge?????Summit ridge. We’re going to make it!Digging in for a rest beside the summit, out of the windHurray!!!!Looking back down the ridge. Remember this one the next time anyone says Mont Blanc’s “just a long walk”Clouds on the Bionnassay ridge Looking back at the summit Downclimbing the Gouter ridge in the snow, as it was getting dark. You can see how much more snow there is compared to the same thing at the top. There’s cables here, but not all the way and it’s a 2 hour downclimb. We did most of it without torches so Neil could see the whole of the route better. I was really, really glad we were with someone who knew it so well, it’s scarily easy to lose your bearings.Just after a terrifying re-crossing of the couloir in the dark, with snow constantly hissing down it. We’d been up for 17 hours and climbing for 15. Finally, walking back down the next morning. Happy days!!!!